Show Report

From the most recent Spring Summer 2012 Fashion Weeks which showed in London, Paris, New York and Milan, various trends became apparent for next season. Each designer has their own approach to these trends but nevertheless they continued to crop up throughout Fashion Week. 

A very striking trend which regularly appeared in many of the shows is the reinvention of the biker jacket. A designer whose Paris show was almost based upon this trend is Junya Watanabe. His continuous reinvention of the biker jacket throughout, presents it in a very striking electric blue, bright red and the typical biker jacket colour - black. Each one featured huge frills creating a silhouette with very broad shoulders. This trend also appeared in Marc Jacob’s Louis Vuitton collection, with a pastel yellow biker jacket amongst the lace and embellished tweed skirt suits in their Spring Summer 2012 show. With the reptile skin jacket creating such a contrast in texture to the other fabrics used in the show, the biker jacket added a modern edge to Louis Vuitton’s collection as a whole.

Maison Martin Margiela, who showed in Paris and Julien Macdonald, who showed in London both used a similar colour palette of black and beige for their biker jackets yet they adopted a completely different shape and design. Margiela’s jackets were far more structured with a very stiff look to them and angular lines. On the other hand Julien Macdonald’s softer leather jackets had a more classical approach and included a longer, sleeveless biker jacket. Celine’s interpretation of the biker jacket was probably the most classical of the designers I have accounted for. Using black leather and making a feature of the classical biker zip fastening, this jacket was the most traditional. Moschino’s jacket, although quite similar in shape to Celine’s, was reinvented with very graphic flower and heart prints in bold colours.

Another trend which is apparent in some of these designer’s collections and more, is the use of tassels. Again, each designer has adapted this trend in their own way, resulting in very different looks. Etro embellished the necklines of printed dresses and finished off the hems with silk tassels. The thin tassels added a lot of movement to the dresses and those with a colour gradient created a feather like effect, which is very similar to those used in Louis Vitton’s collection. The feathery tassels decorated the Louis Vitton lace dresses in pastel ice cream colours. A designer who also uses silk tassels in the same way Etro does, is Julien Macdonald. His silk tassel dress is covered with layers of shiny, ivory colour tassels. Moschino is another design who has interpreted this trend into his collection. Moschino’s use of tassels has a cowgirl feel to them as they trim the edges of jackets and jumpsuits.

Mark Fast, who showed in London Fashion Week, used tassels in a very feminine way. The romantic crocheted dresses were finished with gold tassels which stretched to the floor, the gold tassels also featured on a crocheted shawl. This trend reoccurred in a much more minimalistic way from Dolce and Gabbana. Rather than featuring tassels on the garments, D&G took a unique approach and only used tassels on little clutch bags. These were very colourful, which really complimented the looks they were teamed with. 

Shirts buttoned-up right to the top is a very prominent trend in the Spring Summer 2012 collections. Two designers who created black chiffon shirts almost identical to one another, although worn under completely different looks, were Christian Dior and Mulberry. The transparent chiffon emphasises the opaque, sharp, black collars of the shirt. This use of transparent material was again used by Marc Jacobs who showed a chiffon shirt with a green gingham print; the shirts in his collection also had the top buttons fastened up. Marc Jacobs even integrates the shirt collar into a bright yellow sweatshirt, which is something I am yet to find in another designer’s collection. He also takes this concept one step further by placing a typical shirt collar onto a jacket in a different colour, making it noticeable feature in the look.

It is evident that the shirt is reinvented in another way through Givenchy’s Paris show. In this collection we see it worn in a very traditional and classic way, with a sleeveless blazer suit set, as well as in a very modern innovative way. The shirt, again made from a transparent chiffon, is layered beneath a clean cut, chiffon, ruffle dress. Louise Gray even interprets this trend into her unique style with geometric prints on shirts, layered beneath brightly coloured jumpers or floral jackets. 

Finally another unmissable trend is the late 1950’s silhouette, with the small waist and broadened hips. This silhouette has been created by many designers in very different ways. Louis Vitton presents this silhouette shape by exaggerating the size of the hips with bell shape skirts. Other designers however have formed this same silhouette shape with a cinched in waist. Rarely are belts positioned on the hips in any of the Spring Summer collections, if a belt is worn it must apparently be worn on the waist. Christopher Bailey represents this trend in Burberry Prorsum by creating a smaller waist with leather belts to tighten trench coats and pleated skirts which flare at the hips. 

Gareth Pugh expands the size of the hips with his typical structured style, creating a more angular version of this 50’s silhouette. In a similar way, Prada has presented a very simple, quite structured jacket which is, like Burberry Prorsum, cinched in at the waist with an embellished belt. The small waist and wide hips is shown again in many of Jean Paul Gaultier’s looks. Fabric is layered and gathered to build up the size of the hips, whilst the waist is tightened with a thin leather rope tie or a very wide, metallic leather belt. 

There are many more trends that are evident from the New York, London, Paris and Milan Fashion weeks and I have chosen to analyse the four that to me are the most striking. Each trend can be found in many more collections from the Spring Summer 2012 shows but the designers that I have selected, represent just some examples of how each of them have interpreted the trends in their own unique way.

Shop Report

A very striking window display greeted me on my arrival to Topshop, being positioned directly outside Oxford Streets tube station this display would be seen by millions of passers by. Mannequins were laid on the floor and viewed by spectators through mirror reflections. This window display was innovative, eye-catching and represented Topshop as the leading high street designer that it is. Since it launched in 1964, Topshop has become a major style authority and one of fashion’s biggest success stories. It’s triumph is even more remarkable considering it’s humble beginnings in the basement of Peter Robinson department store. On entering the fashion retailer’s largest store, covering a huge 90 000 sq ft of space, I was hit by every accessory imaginable. Choice is something Topshop are definitely not running short of. Overwhelming? Yes, very, but nevertheless, to a very fashion forward, confident shopper, entering Topshop is like landing in heaven. For those unsure what they are in search of, shopping here would be a full day excursion. 

Mesmerised by the choice, my eye jumped from one fashion 'must have' to the next, with most of these being provided in every possible shade and colour; from big winter coats, to skimpy, sequined party dresses, the vast space provides it all.  With thousands of garments everywhere I looked; hanging from walls and even dangling from the ceiling, I was lead to feel quite lost and disorientated and I even walked into myself a few times as a result of the very deceiving mirrors lining the empty walls.

On walking around I did not see anyone over the age of 30 and from looking at the trends that surrounded me, with short skirts and quite daring animal print leggings for example, I would say this is because Topshop does not target anyone above this age. Being somewhere I have shopped from about 16, Topshop’s target market ranges between these ages. The store clearly caters for students with its 10% student discount policy. Its client profile is a fashionable lady with a relatively high budget when compared to competitors such as Forever 21. 

With changing rooms, in my opinion, having a huge effect on one’s shopping experience, I decided this was something I needed to assess. On entering the changing rooms I was ushered in by a young guy organising the clothes. To be honest he appeared to be more flustered than friendly in our brief encounter and this made me question how he would cope on a busy Saturday, as my visit was only on a Thursday morning-hardly peak time! The changing rooms were big and bright with 34 in one section so despite a probable queue at their busiest over the weekend perhaps, I had about 29 to choose from. Each one was of a decent size and with closing doors I wasn’t trying to close gaps with tiny curtains (a constant shopping nag).

To this day I have never managed to walk out of London’s Oxford Street Topshop without making a purchase. Today was no exception and I purchased a beautiful but unnecessary jumper! 

So there we have it, my experience at London’s Topshop. Filled with every garment you could possibly think of, choice must be what Topshop pride themselves on. Right? In fact, to choose Topshop, Oxford Street as a representative of this high street chain is very misleading. With my local Watford Hight Street Topshop barely covering even half the size of Oxford Streets jean section, choice is actually very limited. 

I chose the newest addition to London’s biggest shopping high street to scrutinise next, to see how it compares to Topshop. Enter Forever 21, America’s “fast-fashion sensation”. With 500 stores world wide and a turn over of nearly £2 billion, Forever 21 has recently opened three British stores in quick succession. With friends labeling the store a “wanabe Topshop, with cheaper prices”, I have decided to explore the possibility that Topshop may potentially have an up and coming competitor. 

First impressions-the window display. Not particularly exciting, interesting or innovative. Just mannequins dressed in Forever 21 trends for the beginning of Autumn/Winter 2011, all lined up and in my opinion, looking a bit dated. 

On entering the shop my mood was suddenly brightened, quite literally. The lighting was very bright, making Forever 21-which is merely a spec on the map in terms of size when compared to Topshop-feel much larger and in fact more spacious than Topshop.

In terms of products, I couldn't help but be reminded of Primark. Of course displays were far more organised than those of Primark, but the clothing had a cheaper look about them-I guess thats because they are. A lot for that matter. Topshop are almost double the price for an equivalent garment. So does this price mean a sacrifice in quality? With no purchases from Forever 21, I cannot assess the life span and general wear of these garments. However I was drawn to a jacket, which I surrendered to trying on. I wasn’t impressed. The sleeves were noticeably too short and if anything this was a size up from my usual. Perhaps their budget conscious prices results in a stingy attitude towards the amount of material provided. The detailing in a garment is another aspect to study when accounting for quality. Buttons are a key give away, and the buttons on this jacket were plastic, painted with a metal look. Cheap. 

The sheer difference in size compared with Topshop, despite obviously providing far less choice, does make Forever 21 much easier to shop in. This is also helped with very clear categories on each level - head to the bottom floor for evening wear for example. The displays inside were much more quirky and innovative than the window display presented to passers by, with accessories hanging from a bicycle cart for instance.

The service I received in Forever 21 was good as the staff were friendly, efficient and most importantly seemed happy to help. I was also delighted to see doors in the changing room area and not a curtain in sight! 

So after analysing two high street competitors, Topshop and Forever 21, in my opinion Forever 21 still have a way to go before they reach the same level of success as Topshop on Oxford street. Topshop is setting new trends on the high street whereas Forever 21 is following trends. The quality of the clothes is where the main differences lie and also where Forever 21 is lacking.

However, with each providing a completely different experience they were both a pleasure to shop in, but maybe the fact that I bought from Topshop and came out empty handed from Forever 21, says it all! 

I’d be very interested if anyone has any views they would like to share!

Chuck Close

This is a painting by Chuck Close. The level of photo-realism that Close achieves in his paintings is outstanding. My painting style is photo-realistic and I love painting portraits. This is the level I hope to achieve one day!